Is there an equivalent for this type of value with other articles (i.e. I note your enthusiasm for W&S. I had a strict deadline though. Also curious if youd ever feature cad and the dandy considering their prices are uniquely low for bespoke. Not really Im afraid Chris I havent had a chance to try it or look through the process in detail. possibly a slightly unusual choice Id like you to ask about, purely subjective of course: for a first bespoke commission, if your budget was a tad higher then W&S classic say 2000-3000 would you still choose them (and add an extra trouser to get to 2k+) or go with one of the cheaper Italian tailors, say Vergallo or Solito, (at around 2200 2500) or give a young / next generation Saville Row cutter a chance (e.g. Youd wear any existing suits, then gradually swap in the better ones as you buy them. Coat Details Fabric Pattern: Solid. Maybe this blog will help change that. After much internet research and reading your recommendation I have taken the plunge with W&S. around 3000 but entirely made by them)? 1 talking about this. Fashion Designer - Whitcom & Shaftesbury Several top brands including Dunhill, Gieves & Hawkes, and Ozwald Boateng offer this service. They certainly could, and Id say you should expect at least two fittings ideally three (with the last one being with a finished suit, but something small needs to be tweaked always a good idea to get that tweak, painful as it may be! Thats the reason why I considered W&S, but I dont like the drape cut. Thanks Simon for this wonderful blog, This is something most tailors dont do, but you do occasionally see it used on particularly soft or lightweight cloths. It is as good in cut as most other Savile Row suits, and almost as good in make. Although given how many issues tailors have had over the past 30 years (particularly changing business models or cutters so youre relationship goes out the window) I think theyve got as much chance of staying around as anyone. On the style questions, eg pockets, have you looked through the Suit Style series of posts? Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the conventional fashion in on-site workrooms, and Classic Bespoke, which is cut in London and made in the brands workshop in Chennai, India. Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke. For years, we had our suits made, explains Suresh, and we both felt that you could find good product, but it was a struggle to find good advice. I hope that makes sense. However even though we probably buy the same brands (and silks) my four-in-hand tends to come out smaller and less tilted. Whitcomb actually offers two services one partially made by this Indian workshop (wholly owned by them) and one by a normal Row tailor. The extra trousers came in at around 350, I believe (I saw a post below about this). Its when the cutter is never present that you really have to worry. new to bespoke), but i would certainly be interested to know more about 1) what to realistically expect from bespoke, and 2) how to get the most from the process. After reading your reviews, I am definitely considering the W&S Classic Bespoke offering. Really great blog. The lap seam is very much a bit of style flair and is probably worth doing without on your first suit. In terms of house styling, who would you compare W&S to? Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style . You described some English suits as cuted with small drape (e.g. The style is slightly different, in that W&S tend to cut with a little less drape, less of a wide shoulder. The width here is 3.75 inches. And even if she were a bespoke cutter, Id still have confidence saying W&C is better value for money. Henry Poole etc.) But then youre paying over twice the price. The feeling I got when discussing some of these details with the team at W&S was one of denial of some of the problems. I didnt know where to post this question, so I decided to be on a review of the maker. They are very different prices, qualities and styles. I understand none of the cutters will come on this trip but Bob will be present for the initial consultation and measurement. After giving myself a headache of what tailor to try next after a poor experience from a new(ish) city tailoring firm (that shall remain nameless), I commissioned a new suit from GB in Dec. For Whitcomb & Shaftesbury i cant say that i feel they provided a great deal of guidance. Following your review of W&S I have scheduled an appointment for their upcoming visit to NY. Since you praise John McCabe for his cutting, I was wondering whether needs to be involved in the measurement process and therefore needs to be present during the first appointment? Apparel & clothing. I cant afford full Savile Row or top Neapolitan prices for my bespoke fetish, so I first read this review with great interest. ), Thanks for the recommendation of the neapolitan tailors. The quality of his work surpasses anything I have had from the Row, or any of the big name French or Italian tailors often named here. I will give my jackets back to my W&S and Zizolfi for adjustment. Buttonholes are sewn with silk thread by hand. Hi Simon, I know comparing tailors from Italy and England is like comparing apples and pears (style wise), but just from a quality perspective how would you compare Sartoria Vergallo to this W&S offering? I am probably being naive, but my expectation prior to these two experiences was that i should be able to turn up and they do the hardwork for me. I can see a grey being useful, but that's about all probably. I like the house styles of Henry Poole and G&H, but I hoped to get the first bespoke suits a little bit cheaper. Among many others, it is known for the large number of ateliers located on it, Read More. The strange thing is that this occurs in three different suits from 2 different makers with 3 fittings each. Hi Lewis, Im looking forward to commissioning a suit for my wedding next March. Thanks Simon. And either no pattern of just a small one in the weave like Birdseye or pick and pick, or herringbone. Thanks Simon, The idea was to empower women and make them the primary wage earners in their families. (Living in Paris and only going from time to time to London, difficult to sync with the neapolitan tailors). A Graham Browne suit and a Huntsman suit are traditional, structured English suits. Looking back at this, would you still have gotten the suit in 13oz instead of something like a 10/11oz? Free shipping for many products! Simon I live in Geneva but get over to London at least once a year sometimes up to 3 times a year although never with any great predictability. To give some context, i am early 30s and now have the income to dabble with a few bespoke pieces; so far, this suit and spectacles from General Eyewear (selected based on reviews on your site, thanks!). Yes Stuart, Ill certainly do one. The only thing youd be looking for is a difference in execution and there are some tiny points there. The chest, lapel and collar are still hand-padded; the buttonholes are finely hand-stitched; every other area of finishing youd expect from Savile Row bespoke (eg hand-stitching the lining of the waistband) is there. I wouldnt ask any non-Neapolitan tailor to do Neapolitan to be honest. I ask because W&S have offered me the option of seeing Sian initially and then having John do the pattern and fitting later, but my instinct says it would make more sense to have the same person doing both. Their classic, bespoke suits and coats will be accurately fitted to the exact measurements of your body. Thanks!! No, the style is different in other ways too. And would the W&S offshore bespoke offering be vastly different in quality from a from a fully bespoke suit from someone like KH&L? I dont have the cloth number, but I can get it. Very happy with her. Also, in terms of Whitcombs house styleI prefer a more classical style although my technical knowledge of suiting is lacking. I explicitly did not make any comments about the suit while it was cut, except answers to questions I was asked. Hi Stephen, McCabe and Bigg are masters of old English styling, whereas Walton cuts a comfortable, contemporary jacket with drape with shape, loosely inspired by her training (under McCabe) at Kilgour. Do you know anything about her? I worry, however, that they might be a bit expensive. As a far-flung western Canadian from the provinces, Im not at all put off by the cheaper W & S option of having the finishing done in fellow former Commonwealth colony India; on the contrary, especially with their dedication to good training, fair trade, good wages, etc, I find this option not only economically attractive but also ethically admirable. It seems to have a bit of drape, and the shoulders arent too military? Simon quick question. Thanks! I dont want any slim, modern stuff. Looking at the second photo the silhouette appears to show a wider hip then shoulder and quite large flaps. Yes, Edward is more dramatic and youll find the drape style more comfortable during the day at work too. The brand is the brainchild of two brothers, Suresh and Mahesh Ramakrishnan, who both enjoyed long and successful corporate careers in New York City before they decided to open a tailor shop. Wempe Teamed Up With Boatbuilder Tim Heywood to Make Two Limited-Edition Marine Chronometers, Rimowa Unveils a New, More Organized Pilot Case for Your Next Short-Haul Trip, The Best-Dressed Men of the SAG Awards, From Eddie Redmayne to Austin Butler. Very good sales and marketing. Also , Its great that you still bring your expertise to clothes within a lower price bracket .sometimes I think were losing you to the luxury market a little too much . Since I am attempting to avoid the common pitfalls of my first bespoke suit, I am going to get a mid-grey or charcoal suit that could be a great suit to wear for work throughout the year. After realizing what such refined raiment can do for him both physically and psychologically, it is the rare man who does not become a convert for life. Seeing how the cutting is the most important part of the suit, they truly understand where costs can and cant be cut. Subscribe to RR1 Live+ for exclusive virtual events all year long (at least 1 per month), conversations with Robb Report editors, special perks, and more. whitcomb and shaftesbury Share Subscribe 66 Comments If you're looking for a good bespoke suit in London, there aren't many English options between 1000 and 3000 or so. Following your blog, it seems that you were very happy with Vergallo in the past. Do you think their house style could work in a deep navy seersucker SB? I will still use my other London tailor but certainly plan to include W&S in the rotation. Now looking forward to first fitting in 6-7 weeks. Those two are often the best ways to communicate style, I really only wear white, which is why we launched with this. Thanks and all the best, Michael. Just one point on pricing. Hi Sam How would you compare them to Tim Everest or C&D for MTM in terms of quality and value? Thanks for your advice though, its useful. Bespoke three peice suit in navy 13oz wool #bespoke # savilerow #handmade #suit #style #elegance #hollandandsherry #whitcombshaftesbury #mensstyle #menswear #rakish #elegance Hi Simon, Wonderful site! The suit was very large in the shoulders, it had no shape in the body, but the first fitting is for the tailor, so I left it to her to do her job and I had lost some weight. Looking forward to know your thoughts. Is it sailing, sailing, or the way to new horizons? Customers are measured and fitted in London by our cutter who cuts the pattern in London. John doesnt go on all the trips, but I wouldnt worry too much about that as long as hes there for one or two of the fittings. The size is down to the tie thicker silk or lining for a bigger knot, a wider tie for a longer knot.. as Ive indicated in my comments on your Vergallo loden coat post, I will also be trying the W&S classic bespoke service for a winter flannel suit. One of the things you commonly say is not to change house style too much as there is a risk it might not turn out as expected, based on cutter experience, etc. However, am i expecting too much? Thanks! Have a look at my posts in the past on Rubinacci bespoke. Moreover, thanks to the well-oiled workings of the Chennai workshop, New York customers who place orders during the first leg of the trunk show (November 16-19), will be able to have their pieces fitted when the brothers pass back through New York between November 29 and December 1, negating a long wait (most tailors wont return to fit clients till spring 2022). Do you still recommend visiting the tailoring/shoemaking house itself, at least for initial consultation? Their classic bespoke service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experienced Row cutter), and then having it largely made in India (in a workshop run by a Row tailor) promised fantastic value at 1350 + VAT for a suit. Thank you, As a general rule Id want to see the cutter, but in this case Id make an exception, given Bob and everyone else have worked so closely together for a long time. No, not necessarily. I do think its worth asking, as they are generally quite open to such ideas, but at the same time if they seem hesitant then dont push it. Do you mind me asking what make your glasses are? Thanks. The only tailor Ive seen do that passably is Cifonelli and even then its not quite the same. I understand this instinct, but it really depends on the house itself and how it works. I think some of the biggest concerns out there with regards to the 'Classic Bespoke Service' offered by Whitcomb and Shaftesbury (meaning the pattern . Every hem and lining felled by hand, buttonhole sewn with silk and trouser hand-sewn with curtained waistbands. Also, the drape cut I realised is not much to my liking as I feel it makes me very big. It looks great. If the later, have you seen any examples? I mean its so majestic, amazing you should do a tutorial on it. The term bespoke comes from the verb bespeak, which means to speak for something. Its Hard to Make a Custom Raincoat. I certainly couldnt see it in any of the fittings but its the exact same thing with both tailors. What am I missing? PS Presents 23: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox and Rubato, Click on an image to enlarge. For example, can the lapel width (not shape necessarily) be extended slightly? There isnt necessarily a third fitting, but there will usually be one or two small things that its worth refining if its your first suit. If you decide to trust one and go for it how far can you impose your ideas of cut and style on them? Insisting on something still identifiable as W & S, bearing Bob and Johns beautiful fingerprints but of much softer construction, I was reassured with confidence by Suresh. Drakes MTM program is priced only slightly above its RTW, so its something Ive wondered about a lot as I try and build my own tailoring wardrobe, especially of softer styles. Every artist has their Read More, What is yachting. The shoulders are quite soft and natural, although the team can certainly do more roping if requested. B) I think its worth avoiding where possible. I mean, top quality stuff for about a 1/3 of the price. In my case, a long body and short legs! I dont know how those prices have changed, no sorry. 4,523 Followers, 192 Following, 829 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke (@whitcombshaftesbury) whitcombshaftesbury. "For bespoke needs, Suresh and I opened Whitcomb & Shaftesbury on Savile Row. Yes, i believe it was Sian (it was a lady). thanks! When writing about the second suit might you include some further detail about the Cutter/Coatmaker and their views on what makes a good silhouette? And often they vary in service depending on who does the outfitting. Im all for casting a wider net but lets keep it in the round. My first British bespoke suit was last year, and if I had known about them I might well have talked to W&S. Its old Kilgour, closest to A&S probably. Are there any similar services like the Huntsman 100 from other savile row tailors you would recommend? I think theyd certainly do a very good job. Thank you very much for your assistance. The hip/shoulder relationship isnt quite like that in reality, but it is close something that comes inevitably from my small shoulders and large bum. Simon. So should be here for the long term. All chests are hand felled and lapels and collars are hand padded. Quite affordable at $500/600 trousers. For sewing the shirt you can choose the following fabrics: poplin, jacquard, oxford, twill, pinpoint or herringbone. Im thinking very seriously about commissioning a suit from W&S, using their Classic Bespoke service. The pleat on the trouser is quite shallow which makes it not functional. Got it, thanks. The reason I ask is that Im trying to find a sensible mid way point balancing cost/quality (budget range 1.5k to 3k), Yes, it is worth the extra over GB. According to their website the price GBP 1360 is without VAT. which is better in your opinion? Do you see any difference between Sian and John in terms of their eye and pattern and fitting quality (from what Ive read on the website, Sian seems to have a more modern style compared to John)? Londons Best New Tailors Arent on Savile Row. After all, people happily walk into Canali and hand over 1500 for factory made MTM suits from a block pattern I would expect to pay much closer to 2k for a bespoke product like this (which even then is still a cracking deal). I really like the concept of this certainly a product with much more soul than your average MTM suit. Were lucky that our workshop allows us to turn fittings around for clients relatively quickly while keeping total control of quality, Suresh explains. Richard, Hi Simon As has been mentioned, your tie is stunning, but sadly it doesnt feature in Drakes current line up. What you may not know, though, is that while the name sounds traditional, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury has built its reputation for quality by doing things differently. The twist of thread is 40 - that is for mass-market shirts; the fabric with a double twist (two ply) from 80 to 160, is used for high-quality high-quality shirts. I wouldnt prioritise that over a colour of cloth I preferred, for example. They will often try to cater to different styles, but without a lot of experience of doing so. This is definitely navy rather than blue Photography, light, white balance etc can change colours, particularly blues. Good point, and I assume you mean 1632 with VAT. Another question: in another post you mention desiring to be measured at the house itself; a friend of yours had gone to a trunk show and did not receive good results with fit. It is just one mans opinion but going in I was definitely expecting more. The fact this has happened with two tailors is odd, and the only thing I can think of is that maybe you stand rather unnaturally during fittings, eg very erect? I remember you recommending MTM for those building a trouser wardrobe, but im not sure if this company would follows ideal fit, considering they outsource their labor and the cutter is not in consultation with you. Id start with Whitcombs offshore bespoke. Also is it fair to have comparisons with A&S style here? 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