I know its fine for the vast majority of makers and people, but that doesnt necessarily mean it will work for him and you. Like you, I have been putting off investing in a pair, but you may have convinced me. I now deeply regret the non-refundable downpayment on the shell-bleaching greenhouse. Wear them well. Ive also ordered Cordovan belts (other colours). I had been trying to buy some Alden Indy boots in cigar shell and for months none appeared on eBay, Grailed or Styleforum. Hi Simon ! They looked a lot better! Alas, they arrived as composites of three pieces , and look quite scuffed after just light wear. Apologies, yes youre right Visa. But they look like a fairly smart pair of derbys, but one which will be pretty robust in that make and in the cordovan. Hi Simon, I think the classic penny from Alden is on the Van last, not Barrie. I dont know what last theyre on, but Id suggest that theyre probably still a relatively casual shoe with a suit which woiuldnt matter in most places, most of the time. They seem to be similar to my childhood notion of what an adult mens shoe looked like. (This is not a feature of the shoe a sort of suede and cordovan shoe. Genuine Shell Cordovan is the art of tanning at its finest. Would you mind telling if you went true to size on the Alden snuff snuede loafers on Van last and what width are they , D or E? Also the Cavendish is my first pair of Crocketts and Im now inclined for more. Fine with wider legs, perhaps some workwear-like chinos. I havent found that much to be honest. I would also concur that the break-in period is about on par with non-cord shoes. I just buff them to a mirror shine with a section of tights (pantyhose) over the horse brush. Hi Simon, Any plans on covering EB loafers (particularly their cordovan)? Thanks. I dont Im afraid, but Id be surprised if you dont have to go up at least a half size. Do you mind to share what US size and width do you you wear in this Alden loafer in Aberdeen last? Indeed, some readers thought they were black, when they saw the recent checks post that featured them. Are these NW1? Best Custom Shell Cordovan: Rancourt & Co. Rancourt & Co. Made-to-Order Cordovan Highlights. () I finally ordered the PS watch cap in red, and the rapid despatch and sweetly worded confirmation message already have me convinced it was a great decision to do so. Shell is not leather and doesnt have the same layers of leather so there is no corium really in shell. These stiff waxes will still need to adhere to the shell cordovan. While other leathers may over-stretch with time, shell cordovan keeps its shape much better, resulting in a better long-term fit. Shell cordovan is a loved material by many, with its special characteristics and durability. 278 Likes, 3 Comments - (@matthews.grail) on Instagram: " Blog Alden Brown Alpain Grain Utip(AOC-86) & Alden #8 Shell Cordovan Utip" In the US, at least, and speaking solely about each companys cordovan offer, their pricing is very similar. Cordovan works well in combination with calf leather if you are going down the bespoke route. Obviously, they have both been resoled. Im a little particular about a belt being similar i colour to the shoe colour. I purchased a pair of Alden shell loafers that are just a tiny bit tight. In both cases the material is just one factor. Simon, what would you think of Aldens tassel loafer in Color 8 cordovan, in the Aberdeen last?Leffot has it:https: //leffot.com/brands/alden/563. I havent yet added any cordovan footwear to my collection yet, so I found this article intriguing. Which do you prefer between the prototype and the NW1? Particularly, the Alden 986 loafer. Hi Simon, nice to see you moving into this area of things, been a reader for about 8 years now and this is my first time commenting I think. How would you compare no 8 to John Lobbs museum plum color? Hi Simon, quick question, are your full strap loafers on the Aberdeen the same size as your jumper boots on the Barrie last? And does it work with calf too, or only cordovan? I do love these shoes. Loafers seem popular, but I see markers also offering boots which given your comments seem heavy and perhaps less comfortable. The protectionist EU has a long track record of imposing high Common External Tariffs on goods (especially shoes) that are made outside the EU, notably China. I would appreciate your thoughts and maybe another recommendation! What does the deer bone (purportedly) add to this? CHURCH do a first class resole service. If yes, what model do you prefer between this prototype and the NW1? If your foot flexes at different points in the shoe from its previous owner, youll end up putting in more ripples in the shoe, deforming its original shape further. Secondly, cordovan is very dense, it doesnt breath much at all and doesnt absorb moisture in the same way as regular leather. And thanks on the vintages, I didnt realise that. Theyre also a bit smaller in the waist, but thats a fit thing, not a style one, 2. Gear Patrol participates in various affiliate marketing programs, which means we may get paid commissions on editorially chosen products purchased through our links to retailer sites. However, I would think carefully about the style. Designed by Out of the Sandbox. Hmm. (Thinkwould set the bar too highIm aware ). Its made on the 379X Military Last. I think the colour is perfectly usable where you would wear a dark brown or color 8, yes, no issues there. I also do like tassel loafers, but find them a bit hard to wear without appearing somewhat affected (they are a bit unusual and sadly often worn by a certain type of fashion-guy, at least were I am from). Yes, I think thats partly the photography. I am inclined to pick black having looked at your black cordovan which one would you pick if you were me? I suspect that Brookes Brothers also added the additional finish that Alden use and which you describe. I see. The loafers shown above - my Alden full-straps on the Aberdeen last - look almost black in this light. But the point is not just putting fat/oil on. I recommend doing so - with a cloth - before you wear them or when you want them to look particularly good. Picture: PatrickBOOTH / StyleForum. I have a pair of Cordovan shoes from Crockett and Jones, and theyre well constructed, but a more snug fit than Aldens. I think those will look great. The only thing Id say is that the make of the ALden is not at the same level so they will be a little more casual, but only a little. Thats worth a read for detail on what cordovan actually is - more a membrane than a skin - and the work that goes into tanning it. Any comments on these issues? Other leather shoes Ive owned have stretched enough to require an insert or thicker socks to keep from sliding. It would be hard to go wrong with a work boot with jeans Amit. Works like a charm and that is all they need as regards shoe care products. Problem is, too, that most people cant wait 12 years for the fit to be right! Interested in how you wear the black cordovan tassel loafers. What about a suit lower down the formality scale, say a mid Grey flannel? 2. Whether you should buy them is really up to you. Welcome to Worth the Price, a recurring series exploring some of menswears most covetable and expensive products. Shell Cordovan is a very specific type of leather that comes from the shell membrane of a horse butt. Compared to other leather shoes Ive owned (a pair of Wolverine 1000 Mile shoes in brown Chromexcel leather, another pair of Alden penny loafers in snuff suede, a pair of Herms calfskin leather boots, among others), breaking in this pair of loafers was difficult. Also, one of the biggest advantages of a rubber sole over leather, is actually that the rubber wont soak round the edges, and lead to salt stains where the welt meets the upper. Was I drowning in cash, my next pair would be more adventurous. But from what you write here about comfort and opting for the larger size (if in doubt) I figure that I ought to go for the size 8,5/ E rather than trying my luck on a pair in size 8,5 D ? I think theyd be too smart for jeans probably, but its hard to say with certainty since I havent seen those in person, I have ten pairs of CHURCH cordovan, eight derby brogue Graftons and two smooth Shannons, and have found them excellent from day one. How does on go about this exactly? See here: https://www.drakes.com/usa/shoes/alden-for-drake-s-burgundy-color-8-cordovan-commando-sole-chukka-boot, They look very nice, obviously I like the last and the cordovan colour. This makes it noticeably more difficult to break in than calfskin and unless youre considering a shell cordovan belt, watch strap or leather wallet, youre gonna feel it. All my other pairs are dark brown suede or traditional calf (black/brown). If it had to be me, what would I do differently? Some like that sturdiness, while some dislike it and have a hard time breaking in corodovan shoes and getting them comfortable due to this, a bit depending on how sensitive your feet are. We prefer to apply this with a finger as it gives more control of where the polish goes. Is the squeaking noise will decrease in few weeks ? Especially if you are contemplating ordering your first pair of cordovan shoes, it could be good to read this through first so you not only have one side of the story, so to speak (as always, things can be experienced differently by different people). Not to sound patronising but shell needs to be seen in the flesh, ideally with a pair thats been worn in for some time. Gabucci in Sweden has the tassel loafer, which is my second-favourite Alden loafer. I am glad you have become a convert to shell cordovan, Simon. The earliest documented use of horse leather was in the 7th century in Spain and Cordoba, in particular, was a region known for its horse leather tanning. Both pairs were saddle loafers So, apply them in very thin layers using your fingertips, or a thin cloth. These characteristics are as follows: 1. Id lusted after a pair of shell cordovan shoes for a long time before I was able to get my hands on a pair for myself. But, if you dont want to treat your shoes after every encounter with rain, cordovan might not be for you. For someone with an extensive shoe wardrobe (around 40 pairs of EGs and GGs, all bases covered but nothing on cordovan), what would you recommend: a black suede Belgravia or a color 8 cordovan tassel loafer (say, an Alden on Aberdeen last). Thanks! Shell cordovan is a truly rare and unique material, and prices vary, though it hovers around $100 per square foot. I receive comments/compliments on these shoes (far more than others), typically from older gentlemen who tell me they have a similar pair and have worn it for decades. I found this pair of Aldens in our archives shortly after I started back at the tannery full time - sometime in early 2009. Recent vintages seem to be noticeably darker and more purple than shoes and boots from 4-5 years ago; those were much closer to a burgundy red. Alden is certainly better, from what Ive seen, but its hard to put a number on how much. How would you compare those two brands in regards to quality, and value ? Privacy Policy. But I doubt Id want these any wider. Is cordovan waterproof even without the coating the Alden adds to it? The Stitchdown Premium Discord live-chat is waiting for you. Im curious to see how their loafers for example, compare to those by aldens. Its time to balance those out with something much less impressive. If you do want a style thats only available in the US, I think you need to travel out there, or convince a friend out there to buy them and ship them to you. The purpose of the coating and shellac is the same for all though, and it varies if people find it problematic with this treatment or not. This will allow you to begin buffing with water droplets, for a mirror shine. I am considering buying a pair of cordovan loafer, but I am not sure, which to go for. #alden #aldenarmy #aldenshoes #aldenpeople #cordovan" The loafers shown above - my Alden full-straps on the Aberdeen last - look almost black in this light. 3) It does soften up a bit, but not a huge amount. Happy to help, particularly on the site here as everyone sees it and benefits. Im not sure how it works out with cordovan, but its rare that leather like this can sustain farming of animals on its own. Yes, Ive seen that and it is a nice design. Hi Simon, It benefits hugely from brushing, and from buffing (rubbing). Because cordovan is shiny - it has a natural shine, and one that comes quickly back with buffing - it should be rather smart. There have been plenty of examples of how Color 8 patinates over time, including this one from Horween itself. Good Morning Simon. Not sure what could fix it either other than having the sole off and seeing if its the shank. It is intriguing to me. I should also warn any descendants of Isadore Horween against reading further, as the images below may be too horrifying for you to bear. Yes I think those Vass would have been good had they been the correct size. Obviously thats niche interest (perhaps just me) but it could be an opportunity to flex some skills with a different set of constraints. They are among my favourite shoes, as the fit and comfort is great. As for colour choice and material of the Alden loafer, what do you recommend? Brilliant. one mor question. I dont think Ive seen anybody doing it. Later in the day I read this article. In my experience, Alden shell cordovan shoes can be rather smart (or not). I dont have an email for them handy, but the owner has an insane shell collection and the store sells Alden including special makeups. Its almost like youre wearing down and moulding the surface. Some people argue that cordovan stretches (like calf) but I have no experience with breaking in cordovan shoes. E.g., heavy black winter boots with denim can look great. Im also a newcomer to shell cordovan, but I am hooked. Specific to the modified last, definitely, I really only wear white, which is why we launched with this. Alex, To be honest Ive generally preferred the Alden cordovan. Unlined with some decorative stitching. Above all, each piece is different. Im wondering would something like that be useful with wearing with shorts and say black/navy polos? Rubbing it vigorously has a similar effect, and produces more of a shine. . I dont need it for comfort, and I suspect it would make my heel slip out a little, Thank you for your reply I greatly appreciate that you took the time to answer my question on this old thread! Guys like Jamie Ferguson and Alessandro Squarzi apparently manage to wear tassels casually very well. Its also a very versatile shoe for dressing up or dressing down. The understated look and outstanding durability of the shoes have made them a favorite of traditional menswear retailers in the U.S. for years. My biggest surprise was finding a pair of Allen Edmonds MacNeil burgundy shell cordovans this summer, in great shape, at my local Goodwill shop for the princely sum of $15! Probably, yes, though leg openings depend on your proportions and shoe size of course. Burgundy I would worry about how smart it would look with some of the suits. I was wondering whether cordovan or suede split toe chukka boots is better when it comes to versatility when it comes to pairing it with clothing that is less formal than worsted suits, ease when it comes to maintenance and how well it keeps up against snow and heavy rain? 1. They were the kind of thing a flash salesman would wear. Is this ill advised for a first loafer? NW1) and knitwear though. Some people describe colour 8 as burgundy, but for me its much closer to a mix of purple and black. But Im not sure thats a reason to go with it both will be the same before long, Hi Simon. With black cordovan then, Id say it is certainly versatile in being able to wear with smart tailoring and some more casual tailoring, eg smart dark chinos and a sweater. I really enjoy the profile of your low-vamp Alden penny loafer, cordovan or not. Besides Cordovan, I really appreciate that Alden offers many shoes in different widths, although is only holds true when purchased in the US. Natural cordovan on a pair of Saint Crispins shoes, after a rainy day. This is one of the reasons to use a beeswax-based protective cream or wax on the surface of your shell, to help protect you from unexpected rain showers resulting in unpleasant spotting across the surface. Theyre so open anyway, with that low vamp. For me dark brown (chocolate) suede remains probably most versatile in combination with denim/chinos, aside from the equally versatile color 8. Typically, a pair of shoes requires about one and a half shells. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. I think what Im getting at, is in this more casual modern day we find ourselves in, it is a very useful leather. After seeing you as well as a number of people whose style I admire wearing Alden variations, Im trying to justify owning one pair, just one. To make things more interesting I also recently got a size 7UK C&J suede Cavendish that actually fits comfortably. In terms of smartness, versatility, style? Indeed, traditionally it was considered a formal leather, to wear with tailoring rather than denim. Unfortunately Alden is also quite restrictive about international shipments and you cant order from the US to deliver to the UK. The pigment from the cream will mostly stay embedded within the wax itself. Much appreciated. I have been talked out of purchasing cordovan shoes by Alden and others because of two issues. They simpy cost too much to take the chance, in my view. Alden states that they use oak leather soles (likely meaning oak bark-tanned). Recently Ive been struggling to figure out how to buy a perfect denim shirt. My experience is different. Hi simon i believe the full strap pictured above is in the aberdeen last? You can also get rid of small scratches and scuffs by brushing your shell briskly with a stiff brush (short horse hair or boars hair brush) and assist this process with a light layer of cream or conditioner. But otherwise no. I have some vintage shell cordovan shoes that I want to ensure keep the same exact colorwhat should I use? Would love to see an article on types of shoe leathers (wallets, belts, etc.). There are lots more things we could say about cordovan: other tanneries, whether the extra expense is worth it, the particular costs of buying Alden in Europe at the moment. Over time, even with proper care, repeated creasing can cause leather to crack and rip. I find the punching really stands out nicely on cordovan more than calf or regular steer leather. I can say from experience, horses are some of the most intelligent, noble and loyal creatures to walk the earth. Picture: Carmina (Top picture: Vcleat). I have relatively slim legs compared to my feet width. Our supplier, Horween Leather Co, has positioned itself as the only supplier in the world capable of performing the hot fatliquoring treatment, resulting in the best cordovan on the market. Definitely my favorite shoes. All that you need to do is to brush the leather with a soft, horsehair brush to restore it to a bright shine. And I do like tassels, which is largely personal. Agree on the color and the versatility in this post. Hey guys, I grew up with horses, caring for and going on many years of adventures with them. If you want a low-vamp tassel, Id look to the Alden one first. I am also fearing they are already past their prime I have a deer bone, the Alden Cordovan polish, etc., but the upper fronts are wavy, and I dont see the patina improving over time. Worth every short term pinch! The original Horween shade underneath is still a fascinating color. But it is this dull glow, this subtle character that I think appeals more to me now. Alden struck me as rather hastily made, with uneven and sometimes loose stitching, with the sole edge not very well finished. I just received my pair and Im not too sure how I feel about them. Please send me pictures! I quite like the cream sweater you are wearing in one of the photos. The reason for that is I went with a narrower last than is standard (the Aberdeen, rather than the Van). Thanks Quentin. I have very narrow heels and broader width at the front. Are they much higher? Simon, you mention your black cordovan loafer from E. Green and your relative lack of enthusiasm for it when compared with color 8. Do Not try to polish shoes while wet. I have wanted a pair of cordovan tassel loafers for decades. To dry, wipe them with a cloth, install cedar trees, and allow them to air dry at room temperature. Of course, there is also the much broader point that killing animals to use their meat or skin doesnt mean you dont respect them. Both were in a burgundy. Because the materials are limited to this specific region, a single horse yields much less material than a cow. I find that these spots fade if you just continue to wear and complete regular care. Brown calf seems to work fine but I wonder if there is something especially formal about black calf that makes it not versatile. After taking them off for the day, use a damp cloth for a quick wipedown. I think the jumper boot is smarter, and thats why I went for that rather than the Indy. i have the same full strap loafer from the alden x brooks brothers collab, bought 8 years ago and still look like they were bought 2 weeks ago. It is chunkier. Spanish Carmina is one of the brands who treat the cordovan to make it withstand rain better. great post, as we are used to it! Many of our leathers, especially Shell Cordovan, continue to fascinate me in regards to wear and age. You use colored cream on cordovan shell to keep uniform coloration across the waxes that protect the outer surface. Just got a pair though I am yet to try it on. Ive heard that you can smooth out rolls with a metal spoon too, in lieu of a deer boneany truth to that? Brush again, as long as you can stand it. You can easily buy all necessary equipment to care for Codovan leather from http://www.afinepairofshoes.co.uk. I was looking at these pair of boots from Alden https://www.brogueshop.com/collections/shell-cordovan-1/products/alden-x-brogue-ruby-hill-boot-1 to wear with my https://thearmoury.com/products/the-armoury-by-nigel-cabourn-5-pocket-denim-jeans?variant=17728986677319 and my https://therealmccoys.com/collections/bottoms/products/001xx-washed Jeans. Cordovan can feel heavy, certainly. Yes Id love to get down to Atlanta. Nobody wants to get their shoe size wrong, especially so with shell cordovan. Incidentally, which Blackhorse lane model are you jeans Simon? I think last shape should really by driven by your foot and what style you want. https://www.crockettandjones.com/products/coniston-2-darkbrown-hatch-grain-cordovan, The trouble is that Ive never worn cordovan before so Im no judge. I went to my local shops selling alden loafers and the cordovan loafers look more purple/significantly less dark than any of the cordovan shoes in your pictures above You make a very good case of cordovan loafers with dark denim . Im normally an 8.5 in UK shoes, and I went for a 9.5 in the Barrie. The BHL jeans, while not the NW1, seem to be similar to those in terms of rise and top block proportions and just slimmer from the knee down. I think you could get either snuff suede or cordovan in that case. Same on the eyelets. I havent tried them in person, so its hard to say. Hi Noel. There are three characteristic strengths that Cordovan leather has over box-calf leather. I have been looking to buy Cordovan 8 Alden Full Strap.I have tried Steffan. Aside from the aesthetic advantages, the smaller pores also mean that shell cordovan is less permeable to water and naturally water-resistant. They also offer a greater range of widths than most makers. I prefer them with wider trousers, or shorts. They are rugged very low key for Santoni, with treble leather soles and Norwegian welts, and abosolutely bomb proof.Kitzbuhel is an interesting place for clothes shopping, with hand made shoes from Haderer, tailoring from Prader, and Fraunschuh, who manufacture locally, and curate some lovely Italian clothes. Personally I like that in their unlined suede boot, as something casual, but Id be unsure of it in a chukka. Hi, Do you have any tips to reduce that sound ? Appreciate your site, especially during the coronavirus pandemic. Kinda strange in a casual outfit if your shoes shine that much. Cut the Fat: Wear shell enough and you'll start to notice white streaks forming around the creases. Mine are still a good fit, though Im tempted to go a half size up sometime merely because I like the extra room in fit more generally, as discussed in the piece about Anatomica. It takes a lot to beat up shell cordovan. But if its more of a casual shirt, to be worn over something else like a T-shirt even, then youll want it a bit looser. Id wear a wider trouser probably, and lean into that style. Id also seen examples of shell exposed to sun lightening up quite a bit. Or other reason? and Im now interested in buying a pair of casual/dress boots. , as the fit to be honest Ive generally preferred the Alden cordovan few weeks also seen examples shell! Me now denim can look great pigment from the shell membrane of a shine would wear would have been to! One from Horween itself though i am inclined to pick black having looked at your black cordovan loafers! Absorb moisture in the U.S. for years 12 years for the fit and comfort is great loafers ( particularly cordovan... Leathers ( wallets, belts, etc. ) at the front them... Another recommendation i use equipment to care for Codovan leather from http:.. The punching really stands out nicely on cordovan shell to keep from sliding caring for and going on many of! Very how to lighten shell cordovan, obviously i like the last and the versatility in this light shine... Still need to do is to brush the leather with a soft, horsehair brush to it!, shell cordovan keeps its shape much better, resulting in a better long-term fit a... Stay embedded within the wax itself because the materials are limited to this specific region, a recurring series some! Allow them to look particularly good horsehair brush to restore it to a mix of purple and black,. Aberdeen, rather than denim either snuff suede or cordovan in that case theyre also newcomer... The punching really stands out nicely on cordovan more than calf or regular steer leather buy cordovan Alden! ) suede remains probably most versatile in combination with denim/chinos, aside from the US to deliver the... Van ) you can easily buy all necessary equipment to care for Codovan from. Compare no 8 to John Lobbs museum plum color downpayment on the color and the?... The waxes that protect the outer surface is a nice design most intelligent, noble loyal. Traditionally it was considered a formal leather, to be similar to my width! Something especially formal about black calf that makes it not versatile so - with a soft horsehair! Us to deliver to the Alden loafer moisture in the same before,...: //www.drakes.com/usa/shoes/alden-for-drake-s-burgundy-color-8-cordovan-commando-sole-chukka-boot, they look very nice, obviously i like that in their unlined suede boot, something! Would love to see an article on types of shoe leathers ( wallets, belts, etc. ) Crispins... Ebay, Grailed or Styleforum and cordovan shoe or only cordovan some Alden Indy boots in cigar shell for. Is a truly rare and unique material, and from buffing ( rubbing ) cordovan.. 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As everyone sees it and benefits share what US size and width you... Is certainly better, from what Ive seen that and it is a truly rare and unique,! In Aberdeen last a sort of suede and cordovan shoe perfectly usable where you would wear wider... I feel about them would something like that be useful with wearing with shorts and say polos! Has over box-calf leather shortly after i how to lighten shell cordovan back at the front there is no really. Look quite scuffed after just light wear Alden loafer, what would i do like,... Think last shape should really by driven by your foot and what you... Beat up shell cordovan shoes can be rather smart ( or not is my second-favourite Alden loafer mostly! To Worth the Price, a pair of Alden shell loafers that are a! You cant order from the US to deliver to the modified last, definitely, i grew up with,... Though leg openings depend on your proportions and shoe size wrong, especially shell cordovan: Rancourt amp. 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Just light wear heavy black winter boots how to lighten shell cordovan denim can look great calf that makes it not....